The Louis Vuitton 2013 Spring Simmer show was in complete contrast to Louis Vuitton’s previous romantic season, this time making way for the mathematical. Even the silhouetted and abstracted flowers were not instantly recognizable.
The decor of the show focused mainly on strict checkerboard grids, and this was the first ever Louis Vuitton collection where the monogram was nowhere to be seen! For the first time, the damier pattern stood out as the house’s signature. Squares in differing colours and textures and at varying scales gave the clothes and accessories a starkly graphic quality.
A series of columns, descending on the elegant angle of an escalator, traversing the horizontal of the catwalk and ascending again, formed the fundamental structure of the spring/summer 2013 presentation. Each look was a strict rectangle when considered from the perspective of an architect’s elevation, interrupted on the horizontal at three levels, with the sleeve heads offering the only deviation from the straight and narrow. This strict template was inspired in part by the conceptual artist Daniel Buren and his work Les Deux Plateaux, a series of 260 columns of three different heights arranged in a grid within the great courtyard of the Palais Royal in Paris.